Participatory literacy programmes in developing countries are often seen as an important tool for women's empowerment and equality. This article problematises the way in which evaluation of progress towards these goals is couched in a linear trajectory, and often fails to uncover the messy reality of women's negotiations to achieve their own aims. Drawing on an example of a literacy programme for internally displaced people in northern Sudan, the article highlights instances of potential challenge or reinforcement of gender stereotypes and how these were perceived by participants and project staff, situating it within the debate on gender, literacy and empowerment. The examples show that a more nuanced approach to evaluation of progress towards gender equality and empowerment is needed if power relations are to be truly understood and challenged. In addition, appropriate safety mechanisms must be built-in to projects, acknowledging that women's "empowerment" may also lead to women in danger.